Flower Envy

"Did you go see the Cherry Blossoms this weekend?" I eagerly asked 노여인, one of my most avid students. Her face twisted in frustration.
"No. I don't have a boyfriend."

My students tell me that spring is couple season in Korea. Although, considering the vast number of couples that sneak skinship in the subway, ride on tandem bikes along the Han River, and parade in their best outfits around local parks, it is difficult to imagine a time that isn't "couples season." All year round, it is impossible to go outside without seeing an immaculately dressed girlfriend playfully teasing her (equally fashionable) boyfriend. Spring is a constant reminder of couple culture with a string of romantic holidays and cherry blossom festivals. For the people who are "solo" (konglish for single), spring is a constant remind of the lack of a significant other. Perhaps spring shouldn't be called couple's season, but the season of envy.

Whereas most of the world is familiar with Valentine's Day, in Korea, this hallmark holiday has grown. Not content with one day dedicated to sharing candy between friends and lovers, several countries in Asia also celebrate, "White Day" on March 14th. Valentine's Day is for girls to give chocolate to boys. White Day is for boys to give hard candy (in Korea) to girls. Every convenience stores' storefront window overflows with candy and chocolate gift sets. But, what about those single people? Well, Korea has an answer for that too. If you did not receive either chocolate or candy, there is holiday dedicated to you too! On April 14th, put on your black clothes (because being single is like attending a funeral everyday) and get some jajangmyeon 자장면, black bean noodles,  to celebrate 'Black Day.' In case my students forgot to be sad and single, my school served jajangpap, black bean rice.

 

When it comes to being reminded of your single status and encouraged to be envious of couples, black day is nothing compared to Cherry Blossom festivals. Even the cold is jealous of the flowers in Korea. A popular phrase "꽃샘추위" is used to describe the cold spells that hit Korea right before spring. Directly translated, this means the cold envies the blooming flowers. Winter holds on with its icy grip to keep the beautiful cherry blossoms at bay.

Although these flowers are beautiful whether you have a significant other or not, sometimes that seems to be forgotten in Korea. Selfie stick toting couples swarm to festivals to get their newest kakaotalk profile pictures. In Seoul, a city overflowing with people on a normal day, Cherry Blossom festivals become "people festivals." The trees are almost impossible to see through the hoards of sightseers. Yeouido has the most popular cherry blossom festival and I made the mistake to go on a Friday Night. The flowers are pretty; the crowds are excessive.

The Yeouido Cherry Blossom Festival

Sunset at the festival

The end of the festival

When cherry blossoms start blooming, there is a brief window of opportunity to enjoy them. They reach full bloom within days and after, the petals quickly begin to fall. Usually, full bloom lasts a few days. If there is no rain or excessive wind, there will be a few extra days. For me, this meant  I had to cram my cherry blossom viewing into my Saturday and Sunday.

Children playing in the pond at Jeongdeok Library

A family playing in the park outside Jeongdeok Library

Near my school at Anguk Station there is the Jeongdeok Public Library. It is a little clearing in the middle of downtown Seoul filled with cherry blossom trees. On Saturday, it was a little crowded, so Olivier and I decided to wake up early on Sunday. We arrived a little after 7:30 and were the only ones in the park. I contributed to Korea's couple culture by taking some lovely couple pictures.

A magpie, a Korean symbol for luck, sits among the blossoms

Bukcheon Hanok Village

  

 

The inevitable portraits with cherry blossoms. Photo credit goes to Olivier Fox (check out more of his photos at olivierfox.com)

 

 

Our contribution to the collections of couples photos.

 

 

A short walk from Anguk station to the East lays Changgyeonggung. There aren't many cherry blossoms around, but the few add to the scene of the already impressive palace. This was the first time I'd visited this palace. The buildings are surrounded by expansive grounds and a pond. The flora was quite beautiful.

Another cherry blossom hot spot is near Hongje Station. Behind Yonsei University is the Ansan Ecological Park. There are several walking paths through this small mountain. On the west side of the park, there is a huge area dedicated to the blossoms. They even have their own festival. I arrived late Sunday Evening and the crowds had already made camp. Although this crowd had their fair share of Korean couples, the majority of people were families. Being surrounded by playing children and the natural beauty was a lovely end for my cherry blossom filled weekend.

Couples and families picnicking near the blossoms

Because springtime in Korea is wrought with envy, it is easy to forget it is one of the best times in Korea. The weather is usually perfect (at least when winter isn't too jealous) and the mountains are just starting to fill with colors after a long winter. So, whether in a couple or not, don't forget to take some time to enjoy the spring.